Costume Designer Unveils How ‘Walk The Line’ Equipped Her for Bob Dylan’s Iconic Style

A Complete Unknown: Capturing the Spirit of Bob Dylan in 1961

Set against the vibrant backdrop of New York in 1961, A Complete Unknown immerses audiences in the early years of Bob Dylan’s career as he begins to establish himself in the music industry. The film brings this notable era to life through its detailed production elements, including meticulous set designs, authentic hairstyles and makeup, and period-appropriate costumes. Timothée Chalamet portrays Bob Dylan, showcasing both his acting prowess and musical talents.

Costume designer Arianne Phillips, renowned for her previous collaborations with director James Mangold, plays a vital role in shaping the film’s visual identity. Phillips, who previously designed for the biopic Walk the Line, finds herself once again working on a narrative that revolves around iconic music figures, reflecting the struggles and triumphs of their careers. A Complete Unknown is slated to be released in theaters on December 25.

Delays: A Turning Point for A Complete Unknown

In an interview with ScreenRant, Arianne Phillips shared insights about the unique challenges and opportunities that arose during the production of A Complete Unknown. One significant aspect was the timeline of the project, which was affected by various delays related to COVID-19 and industry strikes. These setbacks, while initially disheartening, ultimately provided Phillips with invaluable time to delve deep into the essence of a 19-year-old Bob Dylan in New York City.

“It also afforded me a lot of time to really understand who 19-year-old Bob Dylan was showing up in New York City.”

ScreenRant: Can you describe the balance between historical accuracy and creative interpretation in your designs?

Arianne Phillips: Recreating real people and events entails a careful blend of authenticity and interpretive freedom. We relied on extensive documentation of Bob Dylan’s performances at places like Newport and Carnegie Hall. Capturing both his public persona and private life involved detailed research and understanding of the period’s aesthetics.

I began by dissecting the script and identifying key moments where we would need to present Bob’s documented outfits in public settings. Despite the challenge of limited private imagery, research became my favorite phase, allowing me to explore the lives of individuals surrounding Bob, such as Pete Seeger, Joan Baez, and his manager, Albert Grossman. Each character in our film contributed to the overall narrative, and understanding their unique styles was crucial.

Reflecting on her previous work on Walk the Line, Phillips noted the similarities between Johnny Cash and Bob Dylan in their enduring influence on American music and culture. Both artists represent a profound connection with the working class, emphasizing the importance of authenticity and self-expression in their artistry.

Revisiting the Aesthetic of Johnny Cash in A Complete Unknown

“It’s not every day you get to revisit a beloved character that I designed almost 20 years ago for Walk the Line.”

ScreenRant: How does it feel to revisit Johnny Cash after working on Walk the Line?

Arianne Phillips: This opportunity is rare in filmmaking. While sequels are common in the industry, revisiting a character-driven narrative like this provides a unique chance to explore Johnny Cash and Bob Dylan’s complex friendship. Their mutual respect and unwavering dedication to their craft are evident, especially as they navigated an industry resistant to their innovative approaches.

Collaboration with James Mangold: A Productive Partnership

“I would basically follow him off a cliff no matter what.”

ScreenRant: Having worked with James Mangold multiple times, do you find a shorthand in your collaborations?

Arianne Phillips: Experience in the film industry often leads you to like-minded collaborators. Jim is one of the most generous filmmakers I’ve worked with. While we had a decade of separation between projects, our connection allowed us to communicate effortlessly. This film benefitted from extended pre-production time, fostering early, inclusive discussions on all fronts, from casting to cinematography.

Shaping Comfort and Authenticity Through Collaboration

“You have to figure out the sweet spot between Joan Baez and Monica Barbaro or Timmy and Bob Dylan.”

ScreenRant: How did you collaborate with the cast on their costumes?

Arianne Phillips: Working with enthusiastic actors like Timothée and Monica made for an exhilarating experience. Their commitment to embodying their characters included learning instruments and vocal techniques, making my role in developing their visual identity all the more significant. I often incorporated vintage pieces to enhance the authenticity of the costumes, ensuring a tactile connection between the characters and the era.

Awards Buzz: Driving Audiences Back to Theaters

“This is an experience that you really should have theatrically if you can.”

ScreenRant: Congratulations on the positive reception and awards buzz surrounding the film.

Arianne Phillips: Awards can significantly amplify interest in a film, and I hope it encourages audiences to experience A Complete Unknown in theaters. The cinematography and sound design lend themselves to a theatrical viewing, truly bringing the music and visuals to life in a way that cannot be replicated at home.

More About A Complete Unknown (2024)

In 1961 New York—an era pulsating with musical innovation and sociopolitical change—a young Bob Dylan lands in the city with his guitar in hand, poised to make an indelible mark on American music. As he forges personal and professional bonds with other musical legends in Greenwich Village, a seminal performance sets the stage for his lasting influence. In A Complete Unknown, Timothée Chalamet takes on the role of Bob Dylan, narrating the young artist’s compelling journey in this highly anticipated film directed by James Mangold.

Edward Norton
Timothée Chalamet & Elle Fanning
Ted Caplan, Tod Maitland, Paul Massey & Donald Sylvester
Director of Photography: Phedon Papamichael
Monica Barbaro

A Complete Unknown is arriving in theaters on December 25.

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